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Portugal’s South West ‘refreshingly untamed’

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Aldeia da Pedralva ... a Portugese village retreat

BOASTING an uncrowded and naturally beautiful oasis of wild plains, radiating energies and secret beaches, Portugal’s Vicentina Coast in the south-western region of Alentejo and Algarve offers a dream destination blessed by nature. 

Rich with an abundance of fresh seafood, maritime history and a playground for the outdoor enthusiast, the region’s diversity of gastronomic pleasures including ‘cataplana’ (local fish stew) are always a welcome treat after a day of invigorating outdoor pursuits.

Pampered with over 300 days of sunshine, the area itself is embraced by the protected Costa Vicentina, a natural park offering breathtaking views.

Whether hiking, cycling, horseback riding, surfing or bird watching, the Vicentina Coast is an optimal destination for those looking to escape and immerse themselves ‘slow’ traveller style.

“Slow travel is about enjoying the life of a destination, immersing in traditional happenings, engaging with locals, in turn appreciating a slow and thorough exploration of the region,” says Antonio Ferreira, owner of ‘Aldeia da Pedralva’, a delightful hotel nestled within the Costa Vicentina.

Once an abandoned village entailing a pile of ruins, nine inhabitants and very poor living conditions, Ferreira, an early retired high flying ‘adman’, set about buying each of the houses and restoring them in their natural form to create a quaint, typically Portuguese village retreat, providing guests an authentic experience of living in a ‘real’ Portuguese community.

Consisting of 30 traditional houses, the various designs cater to couples, families and friends offering a collection of one, two and three bedroom cottages, a charming grocery store selling local produce and 2 restaurants, one of which is the famed Pizza Pazza – a favourite amongst locals, surfers, and weekender ‘Lisbonites’.

Asked the difference between the Vicentina Coast and the nearby famed and fashionable Algarve, Ferreira explains: “We are a very popular destination for people wanting to ‘disconnect’ from their normal day to day life. Enabling visitors to engage more intimately with the community through various outdoor activities we have on offer.”

Not a supporter of traditional mass-market tour programmes, Ferreira adds: “If a guest wants to go fishing, Manell, our local fisherman, takes them. Guests love it when he shows them how to prepare the fish or when he picks locally-grown vegetables to complement their meal.”

A popular pastime with the locals, fishing is one of the region’s major industries supporting the various villages dotted along the coast. Stroll down the cobbled streets of either of the towns and you are welcomed with swinging blackboards promoting the various ‘catch of the day’ or ‘Perceves’ – a local delicacy of barnacles. Step inside either of the restaurants for a taste of traditional Portuguese dishes.

Despite the regions intimate size, a selection of top restaurants is available. Overlooking the town of Vila do Bispo is A Eira do Mel, a beautifully rustic, mama’s-kitchen-style of restaurant serving authentic ‘slow food’ fare. Michelin-starred, their famed appetiser of chargrilled squid continues to delight.

History enthusiasts should head to Sagres, home to Saint Vincent’s Cape, Europe’s most south-westerly point. This famous landmark has linked Europe to Africa and America ever since the golden Age of Discovery.

Here, an afternoon is easily spent treating the inquisitive mind to ancient maritime history whilst visiting the Fortaleza de Sagres (Sagres Fort) and Cabo San Vicente (Cape St. Vincent).

Once considered to be ‘the edge of the world’ by explorers of history’s time, the dramatic ‘storeys-high’ cliffs play witness to one of the few locations offering both sunrise and sunset over the ocean; providing a spectacular ‘prelude’ and ‘curtain call’ to each day.

For travellers who like to be amongst it all, the hotel memmo Baleeira is a fine pick. Contemporary and relaxing architecture, its position overlooking the Baleeira harbor and Sagres bay offer superb views. Equipped with its own surf center and outdoor activity club, renting a bicycle to explore the region is a top choice.  Considered one of the best surf places in Europe, guests can enjoy lessons from the pro-level team of coaches, qualified by the Portuguese Surf Federation.

Offering a completely different travel experience, it is no wonder Portugal’s tourism accounts for around 10 per cent of their gross domestic product (Reuters).

Foreign arrivals to Portugal rose 54 per cent to 7.7 million, the National Statistics Institute figures showed, with the UK, Spain, France, Germany and Brazil proving to be the top five visitor markets.

Each year Saudi Arabia and Egypt continue to be within the top 25 visitor markets, with Saudi recording 1.3 per cent of the total annual share and Egypt contributing 1.1 per cent.

“Our biggest markets include the Dutch and Germans, amongst those looking for a destination which offers this new trend of ‘slow’ travel and nature tourism,” commented Ferreira. “This style of traveller wants to arrive at a destination and use it as a hub to further explore the area through active initiatives. The southwestern end of the Vicentina Coast caters perfectly to this.”

By Laura Snook

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